Pre-Trip Inspection - My Way! A Must See!

In-Cab Inspection

Seat Belt-

Properly Mounted and Secure. Not ripped or frayed Adjusts and latches properly.

Emergency Equipment

Fire Extinguisher- Properly Mounted and Secure. Fully charged

Three Red Reflective Triangles- My three red reflective triangles are GIVE LOCATION

Spare Electrical Fuses- My spare electrical fuses are GIVE LOCATION

Safe Start-

First make sure your transmission is in neutral Then fully depress the clutch Turn the key on Check the ABS Light, announce that it comes on and off Now start the engine.

Voltmeter-

My alternator is charging between 13 and 14 volts.

Oil Pressure Gauge-

The Engine Oil Pressure is rising to normal operating range.

Water Temperature Gauge-

The water temperature is rising to normal operating range.

Air Pressure Gauges-

The air pressure should build to governor cut out.

City Horn and Air Horn-

Blow the City Horn by pushing on the center of the steering wheel. Blow the Air Horn by pulling on the cord.

Windshield and Mirrors-

The windshield and mirrors are clean No cracks or breaks, no obstructions And the mirrors are in proper adjustment.

Windshield Wipers and Washers-

Demonstrate that the washers work by spraying the windshield. The Wipers are: Properly Mounted and Secure and operate smoothly. The blades aren't cracked or dry rotten.

Heater and Defroster-

Demonstrate that both the Heater and Defroster are working properly.

Lighting Indicators-

Left Turn, Right Turn, Four Way Flashers, and High Beams. As you are doing these, you should be pointing them out on the dashboard.

Parking Brake Check-

Trailer Parking Brakes- Set the Trailer Brake, release the tractor brake, and then tug lightly on the trailer. Tractor Parking Brakes- Then set the Tractor Brake, release the trailer brake, and then tug lightly on the tractor.

Announce:

My Tractor and Trailer Parking Brake Test was successful. I will now do my Service Brake Check. Service Brake Check-

Release both Tractor and Trailer Brakes. Now drive at idle speed. Apply the Service Brake to make sure you come to a complete stop, and that it doesn't pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.

Announce:

My Service Brake Check Test was successful, the vehicle came to a safe stop and did not pull to the left or right.

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an Air Brake Test

#1: Applied Pressure Test

#2: Warning Light and Buzzer

#3 Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out

Applied Pressure Test-

Build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear. Then turn off the engine Immediately turn the engine back on. Push in both the tractor and trailer valves. (This will release the parking brakes.) Push and hold the Brake pedal fully. Allow the gauges to stabilize. Announce the gauges have stabilized and the Primary and Secondary PSI. With the Brakes fully pressed, you should not lose more than 4 PSI in one minute. Announce that you are listening for air leaks during that minute.

Announce:

This test was successful because I did not lose more than 4 PSI in this tractor trailer combination vehicle.

Warning Light and Buzzer Test-

Pump down on the Brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on, at or before 60 PSI.

Announce:

This test was successful because my warning light and buzzer both came on at or before 60 PSI.

Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out Test-

Pump down on the brake pedal until both the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out. They should both pop out between 40 and 20 PSI.

Announce:

This test was successful because my tractor and trailer valves popped out between 40 and 20 PSI.

Woo, that took forever. Brett, you really got to up that character limit for me!

Anyways, a few general tips:

If its rubber - ABC

If it has fluid/air going through it or in it - Not leaking.

If its mounted (almost everything is)- PMS

If its metal or some other hard surface- CBB

Memorize this and you'll ace it! Any questions?

That was Great. well done Daniel.

That was Great. well done Daniel.

Ditto!!!

Thanks Daniel! That's very helpful!

Tarren

That's cool Daniel. I had thought of doing precisely the same thing. Great job!

Fantastic Daniel, Really well done. Heading for school next week and this will be a big help to me!

Thanks

How long does it take you to actually do the inspection?

Thank you for the time and effort you put into this, I'm certain it will be super helpful to many people!

How long does it take you to actually do the inspection?

Thank you for the time and effort you put into this, I'm certain it will be super helpful to many people!

That's why I do it! No other sites Moderators work as hard as the Mod's on TT!

When I was with my student it took us about an hour. With me grading him and giving him feedback after every section.

If you're fumbling your words I would say about 45 minutes.

But if you know the entire Pre-Trip Inspection well it should take you around 30 minutes. I've never timed myself, but I bet that it would probably take me 20 minutes to do it all.

But that's only if you're stating what you're looking for.

When you're out on the road as a solo driver you obviously know what to look for. And you don't have an examiner staring at you. An average pre-trip on the road as a solo driver takes probably 4 minutes. Just don't log it only 4 minutes.

Well done Daniel. Hope you enjoyed your h9me time. It was great getting to meet you at Springfield.

Quick question. On the in cab break check, are you no longer required to do a "static check" of the system? When I took the test after you released the parking brakes, you had to first do a static check of the air which couldn't lose more than (I want to say) 2 lbs in a minute. I'll be going to a CDL refresher course in Lakeland FL starting June 16th and will have to do this test correctly in order to pass. I'll most likely be starting with Prime after completion of the course.